This weekend I ventured into North Korea, as part of a tour around the DMZ (demilitarized zone) and the JSA (Joint Security Area) along the border between these two friendly neighbours. Despite the name, the DMZ is actually the most heavily militarized border in the world, with amongst other things, over two million landmines covering the 4 km wide strip that runs coast to coast across the Korean peninsula. The tour takes you into the JSA, where all talks between the two sides take place, in buildings built right on top of the border. You can go into conference rooms, where one half of the room is in South Korea, and the other half of the room is in North Korea. In the picture below, you can see a South Korean soldier in the foreground, hiding behind a blue building (these are the buildings right on the border), in the distance, you can see a North Korean building, with a North Korean soldier stood on guard at the top of the steps.
Peek-a-boo!
You are strongly and repeatedly reminded not to point, wave, or make any gestures towards the north. You also have to sign a waiver saying if you get shot, bombed, or generally killed, its your own fault.
The tour takes in the Bridge of No Return, where POWs were exchanged following the end of hostilities in 1953, and where until the 1980s, North Korea soldiers would come across to try and grab a UN or South Korean soldier and drag them across to the other side. After a series of 'incidents' it was agreed that both sets of soldiers would keep to their own side of the border in the JSA.
It also takes in one of the four infiltration tunnels so far discovered. These tunnels were dug by the north, presumably in preparation for a sneak attack on the south. When discovered, the north claimed the tunnels were old coal mining tunnels, and although there is coal dust painted on the tunnel walls, it is a geological impossibility for there to be coal in the region.
You also watch various videos about 'Freedom Village' the village on the south side of the DMZ, and 'Propaganda Village' the village on the north side of the DMZ. While 'Freedom Village' is home to a few hundred South Koreans (who are exempt from tax and military service, and who farm the local area), 'Propaganda Village' is just that. A fake village, with fake buildings, complete with doors and windows painted on, that contains a massive flag pole (60metres bigger than the 100metre flag pole on the south side), and lots of loud speakers, that until recently blared out propaganda about the glories of Kim Jong-Il for 12 hours a day.
Our US Army tour guide also described how wildlife is thriving in the DMZ and surrounding areas. Due to the fact that no-one has really entered this 250km x 4km strip for 60 years, and no-one really lives nearby, lots of plants and animal species thrive. He said;
"There's deer, boar, tigers, storks, herons, eagles. All sorts."
"Sorry, did you say tigers?"
"Tigers, lions, whatever they are, they're real big. I've got pictures."
Whatever he has pictures of, they are definitely not tigers. Or lions. And from time to time, this flourishing wildlife does tend to step on the odd landmine.
"Yeah we always have to review the CCTV footage of any incident. Its not fun watching a cute little Bambi looking deer get blown to smithereens, but there you go."
But there is a cute side to war;
Keeping guard at the DMZ
I also visited Gyeonghuigung Palace in Seoul. The palace was originally built in 1617, but was largely destroyed during the Japanese occupation, and it was only recently rebuilt, which is why it looks so new.
And finally, the Adventures of Tyrion the Turtle
Well like most turtles, Tyrion is a massive rugby fan, so he was ecstatic as the Lions recorded their first series victory for 16 years after thrashing Australia in the deciding test. Look how happy he is;
